Mounting rigger on Expedition

  • I'm sure it's on here somewhere but I've searched for a while and can't find it - what are the instructions for mounting the rigger on the Expedition rowboat?  The printed instructions refer to the online resources, but I can't find it.  Thank you.

  • Hello Paul - You're right.  We need to post this information in a more visible location.  Here is the information we have on mounting the riggers:

    Positioning the Sliding Seat System for the Expedition

    The sliding seat frame should be positioned so that the forward end sits exactly 10" back from the forward end of the cockpit (middle bulkhead).  The frame may need a slight bit of planing/sanding at the aft end to fit between the cockpit walls.  Small blocks glued to the cockpit floor are used to prevent fore and aft and lateral movement.

    Mounting the rigger:
    Position the rigger over the mounting blocks so it is centered over the blocks, and centered relative to the boat.  Measure from the tip of the stern to both oar pins to ensure that the distances are the same.  Once it is exactly in position, drill straight through the center of the riggers and through the mounting blocks below with a 3/8th bit.  After drilling the first one, insert a 3/8th bolt through the hole to ensure it doesn't slip from position while drilling the second.  After drilling both holes, remove the rigger, and enlarge the bottom of the drilled hole by wriggling the bit around.  The bottom of the hole should be widened to point where the t-nuts can be inserted.  Access to the underneath of the rigger bases is via the round inspection port holes.  Insert the tee nuts, mount the riggers and then tighten the bolt (with top washer in place) to embed the teeth of tee bolts into position.  



  • And Here's the infomation on making the bases.

    Rigger Bases

    The rigger bases are made from two angular blocks
    of wood that make a level solid platform to bolt the
    rowing riggers to. They are made two 10” 2x4s
    (actual dimensions are 3.5” x 1.5”) sections of wood.
    Pine, fir, spruce or any other medium-density wood
    will work.
    The first step is measuring and marking the location
    where the blocks will sit. Start by measuring exactly
    10” along the top of the cockpit from the rear
    bulkhead (see figure 6.1). This marks the rearmost
    part of where the block sits. The forward edge of the
    block is aligned at a 65 degree angle to the cockpit
    Place the blocks in position, and mark the cut angles
    so they are flush with the edge of the cockpit and
    terminate 1⁄4” from the edge of the boat. Cut along
    these lines. After cutting, place the wood back in
    position to mark the horizontal cut. As a starting
    point, the top of the finished block will be level with
    the deck at the forward inside corner. From this
    point, use a spirit level to mark a level from this
    point around the perimeter of the block (with the
    boat sitting absolutely flat). Two angles need to be
    cut simultaneously, so use either a handsaw or chop
    saw to cut along the line you have created.
    When the finished block is set in position, the top
    surface should be level in any direction the level is
    When bonding the blocks to the hull, they will tend
    to slip as the epoxy is curing because of the hull
    slope. You will either have to place a large object on
    the ground next to the boat, along with spacers to
    keep the blocks from slipping, or you can glue them
    one at a time and tilt the boat, so the surface is level.
    Sand the surface of the deck lightly where the block
    will be applied, apply thickened epoxy to both
    surfaces and set the block carefully into position. Set
    a weight on top to hold it firmly down and clean any
    It is a good idea to create a set of 1.5” spacers for
    rougher conditions. It is easier to row with this
    additional clearance.
    After the epoxy is cured, run a thin fillet around the
    block perimeter’s (using a filleting tool about the
    size of a popsicle stick), round the upper edges and
    then seal the bare wood with thickened epoxy.

  • Thanks this is exactly what I needed.  I started my build 15 days ago and am just about done - planning to get it on the water tomorrow!  It's all come together really well.

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