Hi all,
I'm just beginning my RowCruiser build. I'll check in here from time to time with updates
I love it when a boat goes 3D!
I used the zip tie and pvc technique I read about in another thread. Works great. I realized that using pvc with each zip tie is overkill. I experimented with spacing and decided about every third zip tie seemed about right.
When I flipped the hull, I realized that I had a problem. My #1 panels had shifted slightly (one a bit lower at the aft tip than the other) which resulted a slight starboardward curve in the skeg. Dang! I remembered a RowCruiser builder in another forum complaining that his boat tracked a bit to starboard and was wondering if somehow he had built the hull crooked. Ahh. I realized what was probably going on there.
I resolved it by adding material to the port side of the skeg and then filling and sanding both sides of the skeg to bring things back to center.
Note to potential builders: make sure the bottom panels are perfectly aligned toward the stern to avoid making my mistake.
Here's the simple jig I made to glue and square the quarter knees:
For access to the under-seat flotation areas I am going to put rectangular access hatches in the center of each seat. I enlarged the two partial bulkheads to make it easier to place objects into the forward and aftward sections.
Dry-fitting the cockpit components:
Added framing for the access hatches:
Daggerboard trunk epoxied in place and sanded fair:
I made a template of the daggerboard slot via a graphite pencil rubbing, then transferred that to the seat top panel.
This is not the sailing version of RowCruiser. The daggerboard is mainly for rowing in wind, and possibly with a small kayak sail on occasion.
For the access hatch openings, I made a rough hole and then traced the precise edge on the underside of the panel.
For auxilliary electric power, I'm mounting two 30Ah lithium batteries. My original plan was to mount them amidships, one in each floatation tank:
Then I decided to move them just aft of the rear bulkhead:
But then I decided I would just wire both locations for power before I glue down the seat tops, just in case I want to shift the battery weight at any point:
A velcro strap runs between the padeye in the foreground and another on the far side of the pine stopper, to hold the battery in place. If I end up with batteries here, the aft battery box will make a great toolbox for easy access to often-used items.
