I'm trying to do the initial wiring together of Bow 1 & 2, ("When you get about 10 ties back from the bow, go back and check the corners of panels 1 and 2 are still aligned"), but the panels really don't seem to want to touch, leaving a gap in my bow (see photo).
Does anyone know if this gap is a normal, "Eh, you just force them closer together later once you've got the whole layer on" or could I have something misaligned or the keel panels not spread properly? I try forcing them together with my hands and it's very hard to apply enough force to get them to touch (and there's still a small gap no matter what).
I went a little further along in case it was simply the weight of the unattached panels twisting it, but it's still very hard to try to force to touch (and I do have the middle "near flat", weighted with bricks, and a 1" lift).
I also noticed my kit came with 16 gauge wire (the parts list said 18?) which has been a bit hellish on the thumbs— if the wire stiffness could also be a problem for getting the form right, I could try swapping that out (or giving the keel more flexing motions towards the bow and stern if it's not the right shape?).
Any and all tips welcome! (I have triple-checked the stickers do say bow 1 & 2).
Hello Kate,
Worry not, that gap is normal, and it does takes a bit of force to bring it together. The best way to bring it together is to drill a few additional holes near the front, and really cinch tight with the wires. At the very front, you can even run a wire through both sides (going through four panels in total). In order to cinch the wires as tight as possible, use a pair of pliers. There's a little trick to using pliers - if you grab the wires and pull outwards firmly prior (and while) twisting you'll be able to tension it more than twisting alone.
Yes, we did change the wires to 16 gauge from 18, as some customers had issues with the wires snapping when tensioned. When you say it's been tough on your thumbs is that in the twisting process, or when you're initially bending them to push through. If during the twisting, perhaps it could help doing that with the pliers?
The panels don't have to be completely closed. Any remaining gap will simply get filled with epoxy during the filling and fairing process.
Awesome— thanks so much, Colin, I appreciate the reassurance!
I spend far too long at the computer these days, so my poor thumbs are a bit soft— I found the 16 can be a bit hard to work with in the initial push through when in a tight/angled place or as the wire gets a bit of a kink in it when making a loose hairpin shape to push through which you then have to try and tug out using firm pressure when twisting hand tight. I thought I'd only done it hand tight but panel 1 was really resisting opening far enough with the flapping method so I did a pass with it held partway open to fiddle with each twist and that seemed to add just enough slack/flex/stretch to the wires.
I'll keep going with the 16 as it sounds much better than a potential snap, and will add an extra cinch point or two at the bow if necessary. Thanks again!
I had the same issue and just put in lots of extra wires and really cranked them down. The finished product looks perfect, after filling with faring compound and epoxy.
