http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ Just another bbPress community en-US Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:37:47 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/search.php http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-80 Wed, 01 Sep 2010 15:03:48 +0000 Colin 80@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Those are some interesting looking routes. From our own experience rowing through Britain, we were amazed at the number of enchanting waterways there were to explore - both inland and along the shorelines. I was surprised, however, just how few paddlers were travelling along the historical canal systems. It seemed like an excellent way to experience Britain - from paddling through ancient cities to rural countryside. Having a boat to sleep in would definitely make things easier. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-79 Tue, 31 Aug 2010 19:47:31 +0000 BrianP 79@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Here's two possible routes for such a rowing craft in the UK. One in Scotland and one is the South West.</p> <p>500km Scottish West Coast Trail</p> <p><a href="http://www.pesdapress.com/p31/Scottish-Sea-Kayak-Trail/product_info.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.pesdapress.com/p31/Scottish-Sea-Kayak-Trail/product_info.html</a></p> <p>and the South West route from the Isle of Wight round to the Severn Estuary</p> <p><a href="http://www.pesdapress.com/Canoeing-&amp;-kayaking-Sea-kayaking/c9_13/p23/South-West-Sea-Kayaking/product_info.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.pesdapress.com/Canoeing-&amp;-kayaking-Sea-kayaking/c9_13/p23/South-West-Sea-Kayaking/product_info.html</a></p> <p>BrianP </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-78 Sat, 28 Aug 2010 17:52:41 +0000 BrianP 78@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Such a cruising rowboat as you describe sounds perfect for such Water Trails as the Maine Island Trail</p> <p><a href="http://guide.mita.org/" rel="nofollow">http://guide.mita.org/</a> </p> <p>The eprfect boat might help create other such water trails. Perhaps a Solent Circuit, or Vancouver Island Trail. Being able to sleep on the water will keep the bears away!</p> <p>She sounds unique.</p> <p>Brian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-77 Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:45:55 +0000 Colin 77@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Yes, I think a small cruising version could work well, and add a whole new dynamic to rowing. The key is not to end up making the boat too unwieldy through excessive superstructure and weight. You wouldn't want it like the typical bloated ocean-crossing rowboats which go fine downwind, but are a hazard anywhere near land with contrary winds. Instead, I think the ideal cruising rowboat should weigh under 150 lbs and present modest windage, while offering a comfortable dry bed in the forward decked space and a small cooking/eating area in the cockpit. A lightweight awning over the eating space and hatch entrance would ensure comfortable camping even in rainy conditions.</p> <p>The next boat I'll be designing will be a simple open wherry-style boat, but I'm hoping to create the cruising rowboat sometime after that. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-76 Wed, 25 Aug 2010 17:05:48 +0000 BrianP 76@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>This sleeping aboard version would work really well here in the Solent, UK. The lovely quiet creeks are very exclusive area's where camping is impossible. In fact there are very few camping spots in the whole Solent area. However, sleeping onboard opens up every lovely creek as an overnight spot. </p> <p>Thus a three day weekend Raid would be easy to organise, say Keyhaven, Yarmouth up the Yar, Newtown and home would be easy, yet very difficult to camp.</p> <p>So, one vote from the UK for the sleep on board version!</p> <p>Brian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=21#post-75 Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:08:58 +0000 llewjohnson 75@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>The starting conversation;</p> <p>On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 8:19 PM, llewjohnson &lt;llewjohnson@seanet.com&gt; wrote:<br /> Hi Guys,</p> <p>I’ve read and enjoyed much that you’ve written. I’m very happy to see your plans for an expedition model rowing kayak. I’ve both paddled (Arluk III) and rowed (Little River Marine’s Heritage Classic 18’) much of the inside passage. My trips are solo. I’m getting older (or perhaps lazy) and keep dreaming of a day when I don’t have to “bull” my boat/gear up and down the beach. </p> <p>Several solutions come to mind. First, I could restrict my travels to equatorial regions and associated minimal tidal range. Second, I could transfer to a shallow-draft boat large enough to sleep-on…perhaps a Sea Pearl 21…it sails well, but is a poor rower. Or third…, like Stuart Marshall’s kayak (see the paddling artist of Malcolm island), would it be possible to reconfigure the cockpit and bulkheads of your expedition rowing kayak to allow sleeping while anchored? </p> <p>Your many adventures have made you aware of the issues associated with sleeping onboard…the need to keep sleeping bag dry (from moisture above and below), the desire to boil a little water for tea/rice, etc, etc.</p> <p>What do you think…can your Expedition Model be modified for sleeping aboard?</p> <p>Looking forward to your thoughts.</p> <p>Wishing you the best in this new venture, </p> <p>Llew in Kirkland, WA</p> <p>"Hello Llew,</p> <p>Great to hear from a fellow adventurer. Sounds like you've explored some pretty amazing parts of the world in small boats. Yes, the Expedition definitely could be modified to sleep in. We actually have a fellow in Norway who's building a boat, and is making some minor changes to do exactly that. </p> <p>Currently, there is an opening in the middle bulkhead to allow long items of gear to be stored, but it's not quite large enough to slide your legs through comfortably. This hole can be enlarged significantly if the bulkhead is made thicker - either by doubling up the ply or using a thicker piece of plywood. There would still be room to store your equipment in the rear hatch, and in the extreme forward section. Bedding, of course, could just be stored in the main area. The main hatch could be left off and in the cockpit at night, or could be set loosely in place if it's cold or you're expecting rain. There is enough depth that you can roll over from side to side. A thin Thermarest style pad could provide adequate cushioning.</p> <p>This winter, I may design a new boat specifically for camping on board. It will be similar to the Expedition, but with a few minor changes. The cockpit will be configured to sit two people at a small table, the forward deck will be slightly higher, and the boat will be one foot longer. At this stage, however, I can't say whether or not I will have time to design this new boat.</p> <p>I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions.</p> <p>Cheers,</p> <p>Colin</p> <p>To Colin,</p> <p>Thanks for your thoughts regarding sleep-aboard possibilities...I'm now even more convinced that the Expedition may be the right craft for me. </p> <p>What opportunites are there to take a trial row? I feel this is an important step in the process of making the decision to commit my winter to building an Expedition. I can travel to where-ever and would love to spend an hour or so on the water.</p> <p>Llew from Kirkland, WA </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=20#post-74 Tue, 10 Aug 2010 04:55:14 +0000 drdan 74@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Haven't started the boat yet, thats a fall project. Just a note about open hull rowing shells in rough water. A group of very experienced rowers from Victoria recently returned from Alma, Quebec where they participated in a 42 km marathon. Other rowers include ex olympians and a woman who had completed a row across the pacific. They were rowing in Alden open water singles and doubles provided by the club. These are open cockpit boats with very low freeboard that are designed for open water rowing. Many were heavily modifed with flotation bags to fill dead space and heavy duty bailing systems. They have used these boats in moderate chop for years with no problems. This year the waves were breaking and 4 - 6 feet high. Bottom line - they all sunk. Best distance was about 15 km. The only boats that finished were kayaks, surf skis and dory like boats with decks. It would have been very interesting to see how one of your expedition boats would have done. I suspect very well. Open hulled boats are just not designed for heavy seas, too much open area to take on water and no realistic way to remove it while still rowing. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=19#post-73 Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:01:57 +0000 Colin 73@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Karla,</p> <p>Good point regarding only needing one spare oar for Macons. As you say, the symmetrical shape means each oar can be used on either side. We often carry a single spare oar as a backup when going into the more remote locations. If you're planning on doing any rowing without feathering, Macons would be the definite choice. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=19#post-72 Thu, 24 Jun 2010 05:03:24 +0000 Karla 72@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>I have hatchet blades, recommended by Wayland Marine where I got the kit for my (first) boat. I wish I had Macons because they are symmetrical and I could take a single spare oar on trips. I've also started protecting my wrists and feathering my blades less while rowing and kayaking. Hatchets do catch - especially when it gets pretty choppy. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=19#post-71 Mon, 07 Jun 2010 16:50:27 +0000 Colin 71@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Peter,</p> <p>For sculling rowing, the two main styles of blade are the symmetrical Macons (also called "tulips") and the hatchet type. The hatchets are said to be slightly more efficient and this is what is used by most professional rowers. The Macons are a more traditional shape, and the main advantage they offer is they are less likely to catch the water if you are rowing without feathering. While you almost always will feather the oars, an injury or jury-rigged oarlock might make feathering difficult on rare occasions.</p> <p>We have used Macons on our expeditions, but apart from the feathering aspect, I don't know of any other advantage. We may use hatchets on our upcoming journeys.</p> <p>We currently offer Concept II carbon fibre oars, but will soon be selling Wintech oars which will be significantly cheaper while offering the same quality. The wooden oars we sell are made in China (the only economical way to offer quality wooden oars).</p> <p>Macon oars are usually about 296 cm and hatchets about 290 cm. The blades of the hatchets have a slightly larger surface area , so the length can be slightly shorter while providing similar thrust.</p> <p>Shipping to New York for one pair of oars would be$100 CAN.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=19#post-70 Sat, 05 Jun 2010 15:19:32 +0000 petersont 70@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hello-<br /> Novice rower thinking about ordering a pair of your oars... what blade type do you use most often? How do you determine ideal length? Do you make the oars you sell yourself?<br /> And last but not least, how much is shipping to the NY, USA?</p> <p>thanks </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=17#post-69 Mon, 31 May 2010 15:55:20 +0000 Colin 69@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>It's a hard call. We find that most of the wear and tear on the bottom of the boat from beach landings occurs mainly at the bow and stern along the chine edges. Away from the edges, the flat bottom panel actually fairs quite well (only a few scratches and dings). The main reason for the added thickness is to provide stiffness for standing on etc. Since the 4.5 is already a little thicker than the 4 I think you would be all right using 4.5 with an extra layer of glass in the cockpit.</p> <p>I'd also recommend putting a few extra strips on the outside near the bow and stern will the hull will be making contact with the ground.</p> <p>Since the plywood weight comprises of just over half the overall weight of the boat, an 11% difference in weight will only be about 6% or so overall. On the water you probably won't notice it, but it's in the lifting where every kilo adds up.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=17#post-68 Sun, 30 May 2010 06:17:31 +0000 Adrian V 68@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Colin,</p> <p>Thanks for that. Mmmm..... just weighed the ply - 6.5mm is 11.5kg a sheet and4.5mm is 7.8kg a sheet, which would make the boat approximately 25% heavier if I stick to the recommended thickness's and 11% heavier if I used 4.5mm on the bottom.</p> <p> Thing is I will be launching from beaches and envisage the boat inevitably getting a few dings and scrapes and the 6.5 looks a lot stronger.............</p> <p>Do you think I should stick with the 6.5 on the bottom? Will I really notice the extra weight? I would really welcome your thoughts on this.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Adrian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=18#post-67 Mon, 24 May 2010 23:20:25 +0000 Colin 67@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Thanks for the update, and great to hear all is coming along well. I looked at your pics and the boat is looking really good. That's a good idea making the hole in the middle bulkhead a little larger, and then reinforcing with a bit of glass. The forward storage area is surprisingly big and, as you say, it's large enough to fully stretch out and have a nap, provided you can comfortably get your legs through the middle bulkhead. With the hatch laid loosely in place, it would be sufficient to keep you completely dry when raining.</p> <p>With the bulkheads, you sometimes will get small gaps (or need to shave off a bit) depending on the way the panels have curved. For gaps up to about 6 mm, the space can be bridged with the thickened epoxy without any adverse effects.</p> <p>We've got a number of different projects on the go, but are hoping to have the oar plans available this summer.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=18#post-66 Sat, 22 May 2010 21:23:07 +0000 Jenso 66@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>By the way, when will the plans for building oars be available? </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=18#post-65 Sat, 22 May 2010 16:57:09 +0000 Jenso 65@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hej<br /> Now we´ve started building my expedition rowboat. BIG thanks for the plans that you sent. They really helped a lot and the fact that you did send them was a great comfort sincie it shows your dedication to this thing.<br /> Progress is slow but smooth. After three days of preparation we´ve just stitched the hull together and right now the glue i curing in the seems. It´s really rewardning as it all fits and works out very well.<br /> I am building the boat toghether with my brother who´s a lot more expericened in boatbuilding than I am, and we´ve done a few things diffrently but nothing dramatic. Only problem was the fit of the aft bulkhead (3) wich seemd to be 3mm to small and we´ve wondered why for a while, but in the end we couldn´t see no reason not to make a new bulkhead - sligthly bigger - and fit in the right position. Seems OK after thourogh inspection, the sheerlines looks just fine.<br /> Otherwise we´ve made the opening in the forward bulkhead (1) a little wider, with the intention to having the possiblity to crawl into the "hold" and have nap during longer trips. So the opening was made to give som more room for the legs. Will try to put some extra fibre on the bulkehead to stiffen it a bit.<br /> We were also very happy with drilling all the holes in the panels before we started stitching it all. Had to be very carefull of course but in the end it worked out really well. </p> <p>Take a look at my blog <a href="http://www.jensoblog.blogspot.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.jensoblog.blogspot.com</a>. Its all in swedish, but the text is most emoitional anyway:) But the picutures may tell some more!!! </p> <p>Best regards<br /> Jenso Samuelsson</p> <p>Next session will be next weekend, weather permitting </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=12#post-64 Wed, 19 May 2010 16:25:26 +0000 Colin 64@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>That's without rigging. It's about 98 pounds fully rigged. It's a deceivingly big boat - built that way so it has the capability of carrying a bike and a lot of gear. Unfortunately, we don't have any pre-built boats available.<br /> Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=12#post-63 Tue, 18 May 2010 18:17:17 +0000 tamimendonca 63@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Is the stated weight of 85 lbs of the Expedition with or without the rigging? Also, can a sliding rigging system be used in place of the sliding seat system?<br /> Are there any pre-built boats available?<br /> Thanks,<br /> Tami </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=17#post-62 Fri, 14 May 2010 16:48:00 +0000 Colin 62@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Adrian,</p> <p>Okoume 6 mm is about 20 lbs (9.1 kg) a sheet and 4mm is about 13 lbs (6.1 kg). The exact size is 4x8' or about 120 cm x 240cm. I haven't heard much abour Fijian marine ply and am interested to hear how you like it. How does the weight compare with Okoume? </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=17#post-61 Fri, 14 May 2010 11:54:55 +0000 Adrian V 61@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Colin,<br /> I am wondering if you (or anyone) can tell me the weight of a sheet of 4.5mm and 6mm okoume and the exact size of the sheets. I ask as I have just unloaded a pile of Fijian marine ply and it seems excellent quality and very light. I was going to do the bottom in 4.5mm as I was concerned about the weight, but if the stuff is light enough, I will revert to using 6mm on the bottom.</p> <p>Many thanks,</p> <p>Adrian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=16#post-60 Thu, 13 May 2010 16:13:52 +0000 Colin 60@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Adrian,</p> <p>Here's my best attempt at the conversions:</p> <p>3 gallons resin/hardener: This is a little tricky since we're converting from volume to mass. The volume would be just over 11 litres. I don't know the exact density of the resin, but assuming it's roughly the same as water, that would be about 11 kg.</p> <p>1 gallon wood flour: This is approximately 750 grams wood flour. You'd probably be safe with about 1 kg of cabosil</p> <p>One quart of microballoons: This is roughly 150 grams</p> <p>6 oz cloth: This is 200 grams/square metre.</p> <p>The 40" cloth will be wide enough to cover the decks, but not wide enough to cover the hull in a single swath. A good solution would be to get a length of the 40" for the decks, and two lengths of the 600 mm for the hull. Place it so you have an inch or two of overlap in the middle, and it will be just as strong. The slight lip created where they overlap can be faired with a bit of extra resin and sanding.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=16#post-59 Thu, 13 May 2010 12:43:34 +0000 Adrian V 59@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Colin,</p> <p>I am still trying to source the materials to build the expedition boat and I am unsure how much stuff to order when trying to convert from your quantities to kg in Australia. More specifically:</p> <p>3 gallons of resin + hardener = ?kg?<br /> 1 Gallon wood flour = ? kg Cabosil glue powder?<br /> 1 Quart Micro balloons = ?kg Q-Cells of fairing powder?<br /> 6oz glass cloth = ?gm cloth?</p> <p>I can get 1m (40") wide 200gm fibreglass cloth fairly easily. Would this be wide enough to cover the bottom and deck? My other alternative is to double up with 600mm wide cloth.</p> <p>Many thanks,</p> <p>Adrian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=15#post-58 Wed, 12 May 2010 16:52:00 +0000 Bill 58@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Thanks. I guess I'll head out to the hardware store and get some fir. Looking forward to rowing. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=15#post-57 Wed, 12 May 2010 16:49:41 +0000 Colin 57@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Bill,</p> <p>I do not recommend using plywood for the riggers. Since the grain in plywood runs in both directions it is better suited for jobs where it receives multi-directional stresses. If the forces on the wood are from just one direction, you are better off having all the grain of the wood aligned the same way - at a 90 degree angle to the force. The main force on the rigger is forward and back from the oarlock pin, along with a lesser up and down force. Both these forces are roughly at 90 degrees to straight-grained dimensional wood. I don't know what the exact figures are, but I would guess plywood would offer about 60-75% of the strength that dimensional timber would provide. For twenty or thirty dollars savings, it's definitely not worth compromising your main drive system. </p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=15#post-56 Wed, 12 May 2010 16:29:12 +0000 Bill 56@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>I'm currently building the sliding seat and riggers for my boat and am wondering about using 3/4" fir plywood for the riggers instead of dimensional timber. I've got some good quality ply sitting in my garage and it would save me a few bucks. </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=14#post-55 Wed, 05 May 2010 15:39:05 +0000 Colin 55@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Matt,</p> <p>Definitely, you could convert a day sailor into a rowing vessel. You won't get steller performance, but you will be able to move at a reasonable pace. Generally, sailing dinghies have greater beam than performance-designed rowboats in order to give it greater stability to counter the heeling effects of the wind. Many of them have a hull shaped for planing so they can lift up and ride on the surface of the water when the wind is strong. What this translates to is a hull that will row just fine, but won't be winning any races. At 14' your speed is limited by the waterline length, and you won't move significantly faster by installing a sliding seat rig (though, from an exercise standpoint it is still worth it).</p> <p>It probably wouldn't be worth going out and buying a sailing dinghy just to convert it to a rowing boat (you'll get better performance using a boat designed for rowing), but if you already have one, and are looking to get into rowing without significant outlay, it sounds like a fine idea.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=12#post-54 Wed, 05 May 2010 15:25:26 +0000 Colin 54@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Tami,</p> <p>Yes, it won't be as seaworthy as the Expedition. Without decks it will be prone to swamping in bigger waves, and is harder to recover from a capsize. It will have flotation chambers at both ends. With boats it's all about compromises - not having decks and hatches will make it lighter and faster to build. While not suited for rough water, it will be nice and easy to pull behind a bike or lift onto a car by yourself.</p> <p>You could enhance the rough water capabilities by adding a spray deck or flotation bags like whitewater canoeists do.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=14#post-53 Tue, 04 May 2010 18:54:05 +0000 Tanzanite 53@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hello,</p> <p>In addition to the detailed explanation of modifying ~17-20 ft. sailboats for ocean rowing, the folks at <a href="http://www.habitatcrew.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.habitatcrew.com</a> have also showed the potential of modifying older sailboats for long distance trips.<br /> I am wondering if smaller sailboats in the 14-17ft. range that were built more for day sailing would also be good candidates for conversion to a rowing vessel. Obviously they may be less than ideal for open seas conditions, but do you see any issues that would prevent them from being capable rowers for calm water weekend trips?</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Matt<br /> North Carolina </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=12#post-52 Sat, 01 May 2010 15:45:59 +0000 tamimendonca 52@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Will this be less of a rough water/adventure boat than the Expedition rowboat? Will you be putting decks on it to keep it dry inside? Will there be a bilge system? Thanks, Tami </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=13#post-51 Sat, 01 May 2010 04:27:12 +0000 Adrian V 51@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Colin,</p> <p>Thanks for that; I will give it a go with 6.5mm bulkheads, but use 4.5 mm on the bottom, with extra glass as necessary.</p> <p>Ta,</p> <p>Adrian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=13#post-50 Fri, 30 Apr 2010 15:38:43 +0000 Colin 50@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Adrian,</p> <p>I think you'd be better off keeping the bulkheads at 6.5 and using the 4.5 on the bottom. The main area where strength is required along the bottom panel is in the cockpit area where it will be bearing a lot of weight - especially when you're stepping in or standing up. This region can be reinforced with an extra layer of fibreglass. If you'll be storing heavy, hard objects in the main storage area (such as a bicycle) it would probably be prudent to apply a layer of glass across the bottom of the storage area. Heavy blows against the hull from below are rarely an issue, so the extra strength along the bottom is more for adding stiffness to support weight or pressure from above.</p> <p>It might be possible to use 4.5 ml bulkheads, but it's difficult to say without testing the completed vessel. One possibility is to go ahead with 4.5, and then examine it closely when the boat is close to completion. Apply stresses to the hull (twisting, placing load on the decks, etc) and if the bulkheads flex or seem not quite up to the job, you could easily beef up their strength with a layer of glass and resin (though glassed 4.5 ml would be heavier than un-glassed 6.5)</p> <p>I think your safest bet is using 6.5 ml bulkheads and a 4.5 ml bottom panel. With the extra layer of glass in the cockpit, the overall weight will be about the same as with the regular setup, and it should be sound.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=13#post-49 Fri, 30 Apr 2010 04:20:32 +0000 Adrian V 49@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Colin,</p> <p>I am trying to source some ply for my Expedition Rowboat, but I am only able to get good Gaboon<br /> (Occume) from Tasmania and the freight costs are very high. I can get some Fijian Cedar marine ply locally (well 300 miles away!), that is good stuff (Aus standard, no voids, A/A face), but it is not classed as a light ply like Occume. I can get it in 4.5 mm and 6.5mm and I am wondering if it might be possible to build the boat all in 4.5mm, in an attempt to keep the weight down? Another option might be to keep the bottom 6.5mm but do the bulkheads in 4.5mm, (or visa versa?) What do you think?</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Adrian </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=11#post-48 Thu, 29 Apr 2010 17:31:06 +0000 Colin 48@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Hi Sam,</p> <p>I don't know of anyone who has installed a sliding rigger system. As you know, it's a great concept and offers slightly better performance than a conventional rig. The drawback is it is difficult to create a generic design that can be integrated into a variety of boats. Without seeing the unit up close, it's hard to say what modifications might be required. One definite change would be the need to remove the spray coaming along the track of the moving riggers. I imagine with some playing around it wouldn't be too hard to install the system If you do go ahead with it, I'd love to hear how it works out and to see some pics.</p> <p>Good luck with that.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=12#post-47 Thu, 29 Apr 2010 17:20:41 +0000 Colin 47@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Yes, the open boat will be sixteen feet long, with plenty of room to toss in a bicycle, trailer and gear. There will be flotation chambers at the ends, but, like a canoe, you won't want to stray too far from shore or head out into rough conditions. We'll be building the prototype, shortly, and I'll post some pics when we do water trials.</p> <p>Colin </p> http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/topic.php?id=12#post-46 Thu, 29 Apr 2010 03:44:18 +0000 tamimendonca 46@http://angusrowboats.com/support/forum/ <p>Colin,<br /> Thanks for the reply. I'm interesting in following your progress with the wherry-style boat. Will you be able to haul bicycle, trailer and gear?<br /> Thanks,<br /> Tami </p>